Tackleboxes2go's Fishing Tips
All of our field testers have provided us with what worked for them when helping to pick lures for our complete tackle boxes. All of these tips will help you be successful anytime you are on the water. Our Pros and field testers will continuosly be providing us with new tips and tactics that will improve your fish count.
- Bass
- Musky & Pike
- Walleye
- Trout & Salmon
- General
Bass Fishing Tips and Tactics
Our bass experts have provided us with some of their best tricks and techniques for catching monster bass in different situations. Read up on all of our tips to become a master angler. We will be constantly adding tips, so please keep checking back...
Catching Bass While Working on your Tan-
When the sun is high, and the weather is hot, catching largemouth bass can be challenging. So, after you have lathered on the sunscreen, and found your best pair of polarized sunglasses, here are two reliable methods sure to provide action for shallow water largemouth bass fisherman.
Fishing on top of the vegetation:
Top water fishing in heavy vegetation requires concentration, finesse, and patience. It all comes down to the presentation, knowing when to set the hook, and setting the hook.
Begin with the correct gear. A heavy casting rod (meaning a rod with a good backbone for better hook setting ability) lined with 14 - 20lb braided line is the perfect setup. The point is to use a rod and line that will allow you a solid hook set, but also provide the tools to pull the beast from the thick weeds.
Your bait of choice should be a floating weedless type: there are many choices. Check your gear for a weedless floating frog, or an inverted spoon like Heddon’s Moss Boss.


These are twitch baits: cast them out over the vegetation, wait a second or two, and then slowly retrieve with a “twitch” every foot or so. As you twitch/retrieve these baits, they should look like they are swimming back to the boat (since these baits float, and are weedless, getting snagged isn’t a problem). Concentrate on watching your bait carefully. You’ll likely see many strikes at the bait, but the bass often miss the lure. This is where your patience is needed. Wait to set the hook until you feel the fish strike… resist the temptation to set the hook at the strike splash at the bait!
Once you set the hook hard, reel the fish in fast. Try to keep the bass above, or perhaps even “ski” the fish, over the vegetation. Thick weeds, and “digging in” bass, will surely test your equipment and knots! You’ll probably miss a lot of fish with this method, but the heart-stopping fun will never be forgotten.
(Note: when fishing inverted spoons, you may find it helpful to use a snap swivel tied to your line to attach the bait, rather than direct tie on to the bait.)
Fishing with live bait just outside the weeds:
Hooking a big shiner beneath a large bobber can be an excellent method to land big bass. This time-tested method has produced many trophy fish, and will definitely be one that you will want to master. And, you’ll catch bass others have overlooked, making the thrill even more rewarding!
The gear you’ll need is a medium heavy rod, with 14lb+ test mono fishing line. 5/0 hooks and a slip bobber/cork round out what you’ll need. Large golden shiners are the bait of choice. Hook up a large golden shiner on a 5/0 hook through the lips, and suspended it approximately 2-3 feet below the bobber (assuming that you are fishing in at least 3 feet of water). Throw out the bait close to the edge of the vegetation and wait…
You could also slowly row your boat near the edge of the weeds, with your line floating behind the boat. If you utilize this method, you may need to add a small amount of weight to the line between the bobber and the shiner, and also lengthen the distance between the bait and the bobber by a foot or so.
When - not if - you get a strike, point the rod tip toward the bobber and slowly take any slack out of the line. Make sure that the rod tip is pointed directly at the bass (or submerged bobber), and when you feel the weight of the bass, set the hook hard, straight up and over your head! If you do it right, the next words you’All hear yourself say is “FISH ON!”
Written by Tackle Boxes 2 Go, LLC.
Pond Fishing for Big Bass
Often overlooked, smaller ponds can hold big bass. Be they on a farmers’ back 40, or your local golf course, trophy bass lurk below the water surface. The trick is access, and knowing what to throw at them! Let’s review a few proven methods for catching big bass from these under-fished hot spots at different times of the season
Spring
Once the ice is out, and the waters begin to warm, bass will migrate to the shallows to spawn. You’ll want to be careful to not spook them, and slow presentation is the key. Try plastic worm baits, Texas rigged or with a slip shot a foot above the hook, to get these protective fish to strike. Use a slow twitching / jigging action.
Another spring technique is a slowly retrieved shallow running crank bait. Try to fish the crank bait parallel to the waters edge, just outside the drop off, and hold on for some aggressive strikes. But be sure to practice catch and release so next spring yields even bigger beauties!
Summer
What a great time for some explosive top water action. Hula Poppers, Heddon Torpedos and the ‘ole reliable Jitterbug will surely get your heart pounding. Dawn and dusk offer the best times in the shallows since the bass will prefer to be deeper in cooler waters during the day (don’t forget your bug spray). Vary your retrieve, using a steady action, but also include a few quick twitches to trigger strikes. In open water, try running the lure along edges of lily pads using a stop and go retrieve. But wait for it – don’t let the fish explosion spark your hook set; wait for the fish to pull back and then set ‘er hard! Spinner baits are also an ideal choice for summer pond fishing. Try faster retrieves to buzz the spinner just below the waters surface, or a slower retrieve in the deeper pockets of the pond.
Fall
The feed bag is on. Pond bass will be looking to fatten up for the cold winter, but will be looking for slower presentations given the water temp. As in spring, it’s tough to beat a plastic worm rig slowly glided along the edges. You might also try live bait, such as minnows or worms under a slip bobber. Set the depth to the 4-8 foot range given the pond depth, and when the bass strikes, wait for the bass to be moving AWAY from you before setting the hook. Deeper running crank baits can also trigger strikes. Use steady and varying speed retrieves.
Tight lines – and remember to practice catch and release!
Written by Tackle Boxes 2 Go, LLC.
Musky & Pike Tips
Our musky experts have written some great tips on how and where to hunt for your trophy fish.
Fishing ‘Flash’ for Northern Pike
Sometimes the question when fishing for pike isn’t: “What do I throw?” but rather, “What don’t I throw?” Pike will eat anything: live fish, dead fish, big fish, small fish, leaches, lizards, snakes, frogs, ducks, and just about anything else that swims within striking distance of this powerful, voracious eater. That includes whatever wooden or metal tackle you have in the box provided it has the one necessary Pike ingredient: Flash!! So let’s start at the beginning.
Choosing the correct rod, reel, and line may be equally as important to what is tied onto the end of it all. If the fisherman knows how to use a bait casting reel, then this should be your first choice. Bait casters can endure the heavier line, and greater pounding that you will deliver to bring the toothy critters to the boat. If a spinning reel is necessary, then make sure you pick one that can hold the larger diameter line. Reel manufacturers offer several reel sizes. Choose one of the larger models or ask a representative from your favorite tackle store to make a suggestion.
The backbone of your rod needs to be up to the challenge as well. Medium heavy to heavy spinning rods should be chosen to fish for big pike. Anything less than a medium heavy flex won’t allow you enough power in the rod to throw the heavy 1-5 ounce lures that are often thrown for Northern Pike.
As far as the line for your rig is concerned, choose a heavy monofilament or a thinner braid, of fused line. The brand name lines available will more often than not be up for the task provided you choose a minimum of 30 pound test line. When looking at braided or fused lines, you can certainly go even higher to 65-80 pound test line due to the thinner diameter of the line.
Now, the fun part: Which lures to put in your box? The general rule for fishing for pike is to keep the flash factor as high as possible. Whether you are fishing in Kentucky or Canada, you can always count on a Northern Pike to go for flash. No matter what you throw, in any kind of water, make sure to tie on a quality steel or heavy mono leader to protect the last foot of your line. Check the knots, and line quality after every catch. Northern pike are known to strike wildly and roll onto your line, so it’s in your best interest to inspect for line nicks frequently.
Weather conditions and water clarity also play vital roles in catching big Pike. Here are some general guidelines for you to consider:
Sunny Day, Clear Water: Pure Silver with anything will work great. Don’t worry about throwing too big of a lure. We have all heard the stories of pike found washed up on the shore with a fish of equal size stuck in its gullet which eventually led to the demise of both fish. So throw the biggest thing you have in the box. Spinners of all kinds add the necessary flash to the retrieve that will drive pike crazy. Spoons brought back to the boat with a nice steady retrieve also cause plenty of excitement. Make sure to bring some plastic twister tails along with you to add to the last hook on these spinners and spoons. Choose a color found on your bait (white, black and chartreuse are a must have) and hold on!!
Darker Skies, Clear Water: Darken the lure choice ever so slightly. Stay with a silver base, but then try your blues, purples, greens, and oranges. The multitudes of crank baits and jerk baits will also bring pike into the boat – but remember the golden rule of Piking – add as much flash as you can to attract the greater number of fish.
Sunny Days, Dark Water: When the water is stained with tannic acid or just dark in general try switching blade colors to gold. Silver will also work, and may still out produce the gold, but its nice to have a choice until you have found the right combination that makes the fish move.
Dark Skies, Dark Water: Max out the flash and the vibration with your bait. The bigger the blade on whatever you’re throwing will cause more water to be displaced, and increase the vibration in darker water. Draw them in with the vibration and give them the flash they want to take the bait.
On warm summer days and into the fall, fishing for pike in the middle of the day in the middle of a bay is great, great fun. The water is shallow, the fish are everywhere. Throw into the weeds with spinners and other baits that won’t get hung up. If the weeds come up to the surface of your water, don’t be afraid to throw large top water baits. ‘Walking the dog’ on the surface has created plenty of amazing strikes from these big eating monsters.
Earlier in the season, or when it’s cold, consider fishing more vertically by looking for moving, deep water. Big pike will hold deep in cold front, cold water conditions. Many walleye fisherman have received a thrill of a lifetime simply jigging on the bottom of deep walleye hole with moving water, when a large northern pike has picked up the walleye lure.
Tight lines!
Written by Tackle Boxes 2 Go, LLC.
Muskies on the Rocks-
Often overlooked by musky hunters, rock-related areas of lakes and rivers are proven areas for catching trophy muskies. So instead of constantly focusing on shorelines and weed beds, next time you venture out on the water, consider these tips for bagging a rock-loving monster ‘lunge.
- What sort of water are you fishing?
- If on a lake that lacks weeds, look for rock related structures in shallow, mid and deeper water. Muskies will move between these areas, so you’ll need to find where they are holding. And give special attention to deep open water reef humps with wave action.
- If on weedy waters, rocks can also offer trophy opportunities. While the majority of ‘ski hunters are pounding the weeds, look for any isolated rocky humps in deeper water. These areas often go untouched, yet hold big fish!
- Make note of the weather conditions when fishing rocks for muskies. Bright sunny conditions are more productive for rock-oriented muskies than cloudy overcast skies. Windy, choppy waves also tend to attract muskies to rock holding areas, making them more active.
- Lure choices over rock related structures include spinners, shallow running crankbaits and top water lures. In water 10 feet or less, try tossing a bucktail spinner, varying the depth of the lure, and bouncing occasionally off the rocks. In depths 5 feet or less, top water lures are the choice. Use varying retrieves, and hold on tight! And be sure to use those top waters even if there is a good chop on the water. Muskies seem to be more aggressive and have a tendency to strike more often on top running lures in such conditions.
- Rock patterns are most predictable in late spring/summer/early fall, but don’t overlook casting rock humps with jerkbaits and crankbaits in later fall for a shot at that late season hog.
Next time you hit the water, plan to spend some time where the other fishermen aren’t: over rock-related structures. Hopefully these tips will lead to the shout ‘Fish–On!’ and some heart pounding action. Tight lines!
Written by Tackle Boxes 2 Go, LLC.
Walleye Fishing Tips and Tactics
Jigging for Walleyes
Skillful jigging is considered an art. Those skilled at jigging will often separate themselves from those using the same exact fishing tackle but catching fewer fish to the skilled jigger who is continuously reeling them in. Here are a few tips and techniques that will get you on the way to becoming skilled at jigging for walleyes.
First, you want to match the weight of your jig and the pound test of your line to the water conditions. Water conditions are a factor of the amount of current you are fishing in, drift of your boat -- either wind or power aided, and the depth at which you are fishing. What you want to achieve is a line that drops fairly straight down from the boat to the bottom of the water system you are fishing. For example, when fishing in 6 to 14 feet of water under gentle water conditions, a 3/8 oz. jig tied to a 6 to 8 pound test line will work well. However, if, due to water conditions, you find it difficult to keep the line almost perpendicular to the bottom, then you need to go to a heavier jig and even possibly use a 4 pound test line to achieve the desired jigging angle. HINT: For best action, tie your jig directly to your line. Do not fasten your jig directly to a snap swivel or leader.
What color jig head should one use? Usually light colors are best during sunny or bright days in clear water. Use dark colored jigs on dark overcast days and when the water is stained dark or murky. For lighter colors I am partial to white, yellow and chartreuse. For dark colors I lean towards black, purple and green.
Tipping your jig with a minnow or leach is a common practice. There are three most common methods of tipping with a minnow. The first is to pass the hook from the mouth and out through the minnows gill and then pass the hook through the body of the minnow between its head and dorsal fin above the spine. The second is hooking the minnow through the lower or both lips. The third is to pass the hook through the minnow’s body behind the dorsal fin and above its spine. HINT: When out of minnows or leaches try a thin strip of sucker, perch, or even walleye belly meat.
When ready to fish, let your line out until the jig reaches the bottom. Your line will slacken when it hits bottom. Then reel in enough line so you position your jig approximately 2 to 4 inches from the bottom. While jigging you need to constantly ‘feel’ for the bottom to ensure you are keeping the jig in this 2 to 4 inch zone. Place the line over your index finger of the hand you use to hold your rod/reel or grip the line lightly between your index finger and thumb. The purpose of this is so you can feel what is happening to your jig. Is it hitting bottom? Then reel in a little more line or let more line out as you dip your rod without feeling the jig hit bottom. Is it hitting rocks, weeds or other debris? If rocks, be alert for snags. If weeds, you might need to periodically check for cleaning your jig.
Jigging is actually ‘dancing’ your jig in an up and down fashion. You achieve this ‘dance’ motion by raising and lowering your rod tip 4 to 6 inches. Wrist action is all you should need. Let the jig rest a few seconds between each cycle of raising and lowering the jig. HINT: Do not jerk your rod tip up causing the line to slacken, as you will lose the ability feel your jig as it falls. Fish often take the bait during the falling motion of the jig and if the line is slack you will not be able to feel the fish's action on your jig.
How will you know when a fish has taken a move on your jig? You will feel it!! And there will be different feels depending on the aggressiveness of the fish. Usually you will feel something like a ‘tug’ or a ‘tap, tap’ or if the fish are aggressive they will simply strike the jig and run with it. A ‘tug’ can be mistaken as a bite when actually you have hooked a weed and a ‘tap, tap’ can be mistaken for a bite when the jig actually hit some stones or rocks. Over time and with experience you will begin to tell the difference between a rock and a fish ‘tap, tap’ and even between a weed tug and a fish tug. Those skilled at jigging are masters at detecting the differences.
When and how do you set the hook? The moment you feel a ‘tug’ or ‘tap, tap’ that makes you believe a fish is after your jig, open your bail and drop you rod tip towards the water. Let your line go out freely and count to 10. Close your bail and begin slowly reeling in your line. When your line is taught, gently lift your rod tip a few inches, if you feel some weight or tugging of the line away from you, use your wrist/forearm and in a quick motion flick the rod tip up. This will set the hook. Keep your rod tip positioned at 10 or 11 o’clock always keeping the line taught. Let your rod do the fighting.
HINT: If, after counting to 10 you still feel a ‘tap, tap’, instead of a tugging, let your line go slack again and wait for a few more counts to achieve that ‘tugging’ feeling before setting the hook. When walleyes are finicky and slow to take the bait you will miss hooking more walleyes when attempting to set the hook on the ‘tap, tap’ feel versus the ‘tugging’ feel.
HINT: When fighting and reeling in a fish using an open face reel do not attempt to reel when the fish is taking out line, as this will cause your line to twist. Only reel when the reeling action is actually putting line on the reel.
HINT: Walleyes will disperse when Northern Pike move in so if you begin catching Pike it is time to move and find another walleye spot. Another good reason is Northern will often cut your line and you will find yourself spending more time tying on jigs than fishing!!
HINT: Don’t forget to adjust the drag on your reel to the pound test of your line and the largest size fish you are likely to hook. Also, at the end of your fishing trip back off the drag. On many reels keeping the drag set tight when stored between fishing trips will wear on the drag system and it may lose its ability to adjust properly.
NOTE: The above tips and techniques are general guidelines and not a guarantee of reeling in fish. Masterful and skilled fishermen will continuously process all information concerning what they observe while fishing and make adjustments until they find the right combination that seems to work best. What worked yesterday might not work best today or tomorrow.
Written by Tackle Boxes 2 Go, LLC.
Trout and Salmon Fishing Tips and Tactics
Trolling for Trout
Trolling is generally easier than other fishing techniques, so novice fisherman should consider this method. Additionally, since the speed and the path of the lure are determined by your moving boat, more water can be covered than can be with other fishing methods. It’s the method of choice when the fisherman wants to cover a lot of water.
Trolling obtains its highest potential in deep water and large rivers having a moderate, yet constant moving current. Trolling for trout is not well suited for smaller river beds that have a fast current, because is difficult to keep the bait on a constant path of motion, these waters will often leave the fisherman snagged on the river bottom.
When trolling for trout in clear river beds, one of the main difficulties is the spooking of fish by the boat and/or the boat’s motor. There are several ways the fisherman can get around this problem. One way is by trolling in an elongated “S” pattern. This allows the bait to troll behind the boat, and yet not always be forced into the wake of the motor. Another option to avoid spooking fish is to use a “side planer”. This is a device that acts like a bobber, staying afloat above your trolling lure, while pulling the bait far one side of the moving boat. This allows the bait to travel in a wake free path thereby increasing your chances to gain the interest of a fish.
The basic equipment needed for a successful trout troll would include a bait casting reel wound with 10-30 lb. line, on a 7-8 foot medium heavy action rod. A 45lb 6inch leader. This set up assures the fisherman that his lures will be provided with good action, and yet protected from “bite-offs”. Add a good rod holder to your boat (a simple device that allows you to rest the pole down and guide your boat while keeping your pole in a hands free place) and your ready to hit the water.
The baits that are used for trolling are many. In deeper waters many anglers try trolling deep-diving crank baits. Cranks baits are a good lure of choice since their wobble and flash action attract hungry lake trout. Reef Runners and Rapala Rattl’n Traps are good examples of these types of baits. Along with crank baits, spoons, jigs and spinners are also good choices. If you decide to try give spoons a chance, an extra trick is to add a minnow, or piece of sucker meat, to the rear treble hook adding scent to the lure.
Trolling methods vary for the location and situation. A very common form of trolling is called backtrolling, often used to slow a boat against an existing current (be certain to check local ordinances since motor backtrolling is prohibited in some areas). The fisherman will run the motor in reverse at a low speed to reduce the drift speed of the boat. As long as the boat is moving more slowly than the current, the force of the water will give the lure tremendous action.
Another method of trolling is called downstream trolling. This method is best used when the fisherman is using a spinner bait, which by design does not require a fast current to induce a good action. Trolling downstream faster than the current allows spinners to stay submerged and maintain a constant action. This presentation makes the lure seem like a bait fish that is drifting along with the natural flowage of the current. It also allows the angler to have a better position for landing the fish, since the natural current pushes the fish towards the boat, and also allows the fisherman to worry less about fighting the current.
One of the main bonuses of trolling is that your lure is in the water all of the time. This means that you have a greater chance of catching fish; along with a higher fish exposure rate. So, consider this method the next time the water is right!
Written by Tackle Boxes 2 Go, LLC.
Very soon we will be providing general all-purpose fishing tips


